Rosario, Argentina: Camping with Couch Syrup

Of course this being my first week in Argentina my body has decided to completely shut down and give me the cold that just won't quit. It may be the climate change of switching from the beach of Máncora, Peru to the big-bad city of Buenos Aires, but either way no complaints. I'm rolling with the punches and reaching for the gold. The gold being the yellow tinted bottle of Jarabe (cough syrup) and mixing wisely.

Started the journey on Friday with fellow CouchSurfers Pablo (Argentina) and Melanie (Germany). Goal one: Get to the Freeway. After about an hour bus ride we arrived safely at the side of the freeway and walked towards the toll booth area where cars and trucks alike were making their way towards, our same destination, Rosario. Pablo immediately threw the "Rosario" sign to me and there we were, hitchhiking. Within about 5 seconds a car, already parked on the side of the road, waves us over. We all begin giggling to ourselves about how ridiculously easy that was, while Pablo also reminds us to keep our traps shut so the driver wouldn't suspect we were foreign (as if he wouldn't guess).

After Pablo exchanged a few words the driver took off. Mel and I looked at each other with the "what happened?" look, but apparently the driver wasn't going directly into the city center & we were better off waiting. So now we're being picky hitchhikers? I love it.

Within 5 minutes another chummy old chap stopped over and we were on our way. By far the easiest hitchhiking I've ever heard of. The rest of the trip was sharing conversation over Mate and laughing off the old man's jokes of joining us for our camping trip. That would've been interesting.

Plaza, walk, bus, walk & We're there! Only 7 hours for about a 4 hour journey. Moving on, as any good Argentinian would, we went and bought meat. The exact weight escapes me, but I'm pretty sure it was about a pound of meat each. The rest of the weekend was filled with meat, songs and lots of Fernet (and of course Jarabe).

The laughter started and ended with the sun, with most of the jokes being too ridiculous to explain. But all in all it was definitely a crazy adventure.

Quote of the Trip: "Jarabe"

Dance off

So over the past few weeks I have received two videos from two locations from 6 friends. My only choice is to show the folks at home what we here are La Paz are all about.

Let the games begin.

Couchsurfing HQ La Paz Manu Chau from MalBones on Vimeo.

Even the hobo has an appearance in the end.

If two germans fall in an empty jungle, do they make a sound?

So the family is back this week. Two Germans, a dutch girl, and a uni-cycling Uruguayan went into the jungle for 2 weeks and came back in quite a state. Each about 7-10 lbs lighter and a new found hate for rice and garlic.

We, on the other hand, headed to a amazing Electronic music festival on Isla de Sol while the crew recovered. As my boat arrived I saw 21 circus folks on the top of a boat playing every instrument, wearing every color make-up, and many of them stacked on top of each other.

Now I'm just winding down my last week of work and getting ready for another crazy adventure to Ecuador. Playa here I come.

Oh yea, we've also been doing stencils.

The earth shakes as I pack my things to go

You gave me all the love that's necessary
when two people try to find themselves,
love beyond all common sense
based on some sweet permanence
with only one
and baby I thought I needed you
in a changing world
baby I thought I needed you

Wanting so to give away,
important things I had to say
for many days,
suddenly you came along
helped me share my perfect song
in perfect ways,
and baby I thought I needed you
in a changing world,
I thought I needed you

The closer that we drew together
made our love seem like forever,
naturally,
and then I heard you sing the song
that I was singing all along
and failed to see,
baby,
the thing that I most fear
in a changing world:
Baby, I saw you disappear

Empty now and silently I face your struggle to be free
to be on your own,
to grow so very carefully
and suffer necessarily
for what I've done
to baby who wants to know the thing
in a changing world
to baby who's learning how to sing

~Biff Rose, "To Baby"

Never cease to amaze me

So 7 of my couchsurfers headed to the folklorica festival this weekend in Coroico. The rest of us weren't going to go but last minute on day 2 at around 5pm we decided we needed to get out of La Paz. The 4 of us caught one of the last buses and arrived at around 10pm. At the bus approached the city (in the middle of the jungle) we felt the warm sticky breeze on our faces. Oh lord, we are ready for this weather.

Bus crashed into a pole as we got into the town. We decided that was a good stopping point. The whole city is at a slant so we struggled up the hill with our tents, pots and rando gear. We were ready for some folkloric culture and some outdoor camping. Within 30 seconds we realized that we had intensely misjudged what kind of festival this would be. We found our friends, who were already 4 rum bottles deep, and realized we were going to have to stash our stuff and pull an all nighter. They had found hotel with a storage room where we could put our stuff for 30 cents a night.

The Bolivians looked like Zombies slowly and steadily making it drunkenly up the hill. One foot at a time my friend. A little sway here and there. A full 45 degree angle, head first.

The rest of the night was debauchery, complete with surfers climbing into mansion gardens, unicycle lessons (we later took him back to La Paz with us) and of course a German Mr. Hyde running like a madman.

After losing half the group we thought it would be a good idea to try pitch a tent somewhere. The hotel was kind enough to let us use their lawn, next to a big jeep and a few other tents that had already made their way there. We met some hippies and hung out with them for a while and then crashed till 11am. In the morning we were surprised that the rest hadn't come back yet. I walked to the plaza to find them. And oh did I ever...

In front of me sat 5 surfers. Each had a large beer in their hand, minus one who's was broken on the floor in front of him. I walk up to them laughing, only to be greeted by German Mr. Hyde, explaining that I needed to meet the plaza family. Keep in mind they had been drinking 22 hours straight. The family was as follows:

Eggman: Passed out sitting up with a crushed egg on his head
Newlyweds: The one girlfriend had been holding back her vomiting boyfriend's hair
Gravity Man: Who had fallen asleep with one shoulder on the bench and the rest of his body still in a perfect sitting position. When I arrived he had fallen into the dead man position face down on the floor.
Bruce Lee: Never got that one explained to me, only that he would return shortly.

The drinking continued till about 4pm, when we finally decided to go back home. I've never been so proud of my children.

Quote of the night:
"Dude we're so lost, which way should we go, where's the concert?"
Chris: "That guy's carrying a gas tank let's go that way"
Dan: "Haha, that guy's wearing a jacket maybe he knows"
Chris: "Seriously, I figured he meant business with that thing"

Bittersweet

Why is it that you fall in love with a city right before you are about to leave?

Couchsurfers come in all the time and rave about how they love La Paz, and I never really understood it. It's cold. It's really freaking high, which means your colds last a month (and everyone gets a cold). But somehow it has crawled under my first layer. It's just there making me comfortable. Making me a little warm. Paying my 21 cents to work everyday (42 if I splurge on a taxi). Buy my two salteña breakfast for 98 cents. Watch the little Bolivians, dressed in zebra costumes, teach the public to cross on the black and white lines. Somehow walk into a fiesta/parade/festival every day.

And now I have to start planning to leave. Clean, pack, plan. It's been 6 months and NOW it hits me. Why now?

Winter Solstice in June

8:30 Bus is leaving to Tiwanaku
8:45 Buying rum
9:00 Arrive at bus
9:30 New departure
Get on Bus
10:00 Bus leaves
1:00am Bus Arrives

Walk to the center plaza, there is a party set up the size of carnaval. 5000 drunk people equipped with a stage and band. We danced all night long. The bitter cold was enough incentive to keep the beat going. As the sun started to rise, all 5000 (well let's assume 1000 were too drunk to move) people ran to the ruins to praise the gods. The bonfires stretched into the sky and flags blew in the air. As the sun peered over the hill each person raised their hands towards the sun. The warmth was pure sensation after the cold night. The party continued till about 10am. We sat and drank a coffee to try and sober up before the long bus ride.

10:00 am Bus Leaves
12:00 Arrive La Paz
15 minutes 8 stumblers make it back to the house and crash in all parts of the house.
5:30 pm Wake up to two friends standing over me that had not yet been to sleep.
6:30 Ate a combo of Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. A brunchner.



What a party

Attempted Productive Sunday

Decided not to waste our Sunday all day in bed and instead went to Lake Cota Cota. Almost productive.

Mother supports child's need for shisha

Box of Coals: $22
FedEx Shipment: $64.61
Bolivia Taxes: $38.85
Lighting up the shisha at Valle de la Luna: Priceless

Ruins ruin

I've been told I am a Ruin snob. Not because I know so much about them but because I have sort of given up caring. Once you've seen a few ruins the rest just kind of seem, well, the same. I would much rather venture into the desert or share a coffee with a little old lady. But instead we spent our 80B (16 x more than lunch) and wandered around some ruins which were sadly covered in trash.

Walking around we realized we were more interested in the signs and bugs than the actual ruins. Five minutes in the Museum, 10 eating a lolly pop. A little walk past the ruins, 30 minutes of lunch. A glimpse at a statue then a little lay down next to the statue. Pretty hilarious day, wrapped up with our poor Quebec friend throwing up after the bumpy bus ride.